Losing a Friend




Winter has finally passed.  The last vestiges of snow have melted from our north-facing hillside.  This morning I rose early, made sourdough pancakes and coffee, and took service dog Elvis for a long walk into town.

I walked past the church that I once attended and served as deacon and into an older neighborhood with beautifully restored Victorian homes.  Today is garage sale weekend, so the yards and streets were busy.  The birds were singing.  I could hear children playing.  One house was silent.  The paint on the house was starting to peel.  My friend Jon was found dead in that house yesterday.

Jon grew up in that town.  He was a high school football star, graduated from college, earned a commission as a captain in the Army Rangers, and served in combat in Grenada and Panama, making dozens of jumps during his military stint at high altitude and low altitude.  Jon married a local girl, had two great sons, and worked as a stockbroker/financial adviser for many years.

I met Jon at my coffee shop and roastery.  He was widely traveled and loved coffee. Jon was a frequent participant at the “smart table” that met every morning to discuss the world and local problems of the day.  He was interested in the roasting process and would join me in the roasting room early in the morning before opening to talk and joke while I roasted.  He scared the crap out of me early one morning by putting a laser sight on my chest while he hid out in the back parking lot.  Jon did have a weird sense of humor.

I knew him as a friend in the shop and outside the shop.  One time, while I was working on a slow afternoon, he brought me a plate of freshly prepared wild game and wild rice, explaining how he harvested and prepared each of the samples on the plate.  He was a great cook, and it was delicious.  Jon also invited me to bring my kids to his home for a family fish fry–bluegill that he and his boys had caught. It was an occasion that I’ll always remember.  From the outside, everything looked completely happy and normal.

Around that time, Jon told me he would do anything for me.  I kind of laughed it off, but I think he was serious.  All i needed to do was ask. Jon was that kind of person.

I knew that Jon had back problems–partly due to parachute jumps when he was in the military.  He’d had one surgery to fuse vertebra.  Then, after saving a large, sinking man in a lake during a triathlon, Jon blew out his back again.  He needed another surgery, and Jon was never the same after that second surgery.

I went hiking with him once, taking Jon to the secret waterfall near Leland, Wisconsin.  He told me that he later took his family on that hike to show them the  waterfall. On the drive, I introduced him to the folk singer Tom Russell.  Jon seemed to really enjoy the music, especially the sad song, “”California Snow.”

Alcohol had always been part of Jon’s life, although he never let me see him intoxicated.  He introduced me to Eagle Rare bourbon by giving me a bottle although he refused to drink it with me.  I’m not sure I ever shared a drink with him.  Jon invited me to meet his parents, and his dad poured me a small glass of rye, but I don’t remember Jon having any.

As Jon’s back problems grew worse, doctors couldn’t find a way to fix him.  The two surgeries had left Jon in frequent pain, but there wasn’t a viable treatment at that point.  There was an experimental surgery, but Jon didn’t trust it.  So the doctors offered pain medication, which Jon hated.  Instead, he self-medicated with alcohol.  That was the drug he knew and trusted, but it took its toll. Jon’s wife divorced him. Jon eventually became unable to work and found himself in a fight with the private disability insurer to whom he had paid premiums for decades.

During the last couple of years, there was a gap between what Jon told me and what I believed to be true.  He was keeping up a front about what was happening in the divorce case and the disability insurance case and about how he was dealing with the pain.  Jon stopped inviting me into his house or even answering the door.  He didn’t have voice mail set up and refused to text.  He would sometimes call me up on the phone when it was clear that he was intoxicated.  More often, he would show up at my house completely sober and in obvious pain.  Jon would mention that alcohol had been a problem but one that he had overcome.

Last Thanksgiving, another friend called to tell me that Jon was in the hospital and might not make it.  The doctors were giving him a 4% chance of survival and admitted him for hospice care.  His skin was a deep yellow.  Both his liver and kidneys were failing.  Jon was a fighter and beat the odds.  He eventually transferred to a local nursing home and then miraculously back home to live independently.  Jon knew that drinking again would kill him.  We talked about it–at least three times in the last couple of months.  He told me that he had found spirituality and was committed to spending his remaining days wisely.

About a month ago, Jon came by my house to visit while another mutual friend was here. We shot the crap about old times.  His color was much better–nearly normal. We drank coffee and told Jon how glad we were that he had made it back.  Jon was going to get a puppy.  Things were looking up.  A few days later, I stopped by at Jon’s house, and he wouldn’t answer the locked door.  I drove back home, and the telephone rang.  It was Jon, and he was off.  I didn’t know if it was pain medication or alcohol, but my heart sank.  I couldn’t be totally positive what was going on, so I didn’t say anything directly to him during the phone call. Maybe I should have.

Two weeks ago, Jon called and said he was feeling down.  I invited him to come over while I moved firewood into the pole shed.  Jon asked if he could bring soup from the Chinese restaurant in town.  Jon also brought his new puppy, and we sat on the hill in the sunshine, eating our soup and watching the puppy play in the grass. I never did get a good photo of it; the puppy was in constant motion.


 We talked about better days:  the hike to the hidden waterfall, dogs, coffee.  He was sober, but I could tell he wasn’t feeling great.  Jon didn’t eat much of his soup.


 A few days later, Jon called to talk, and I invited him to come over for coffee. It was a miserable cool and wet day.  He complained about feeling cold and wondered if I would build a fire.  I threw on some fresh wood into the wood stove, and he sat by the fire in the rocking chair, warming his bones and drinking the coffee.  Jon said it was the best coffee that he’d ever had.  He usually said that to me.

Jon called me up on the next day to say how much he enjoyed the coffee and the fire.  That would be the last time I talked to Jon.

As I suspected, Jon went back to drinking to ease the pain.  When I heard the news of his death yesterday, I was angry and sad–mostly angry.  Today, I have the same emotions, but I am mostly sad.  The family decided not to have a funeral.  The world has lost a good guy.

Plans and Research


I will be sticking around south-central Wisconsin for the next six weeks. There is much to do with the process to get my son ready for independent living and college, along with a high school graduation party to plan.  In the meantime, I also have some planning, preparation and modifications on my Scamp trailer–the Brew Hut.  I won’t have time for much Scamping this summer, due to other travel plans, but I do have plans for an extended fall trip.

Modifications under consideration are upgrading the battery, replacing the carpet with vinyl plank flooring, upgrading the mattress, changing out the dinette table, deciding whether or not  to get a  generator and/or an inverter,  and a few other things.

We had another six inches plus of snow today.  Last year, we had a few days in the 70’s by this time of year.  What started out as a fairly mild winter has seemed to go on forever.  The wood stove is warming my old bones tonight,  but  I’m ready for a little “screened porch time” and warmer weather. The weatherman promises changes soon for the better.


Tonight, I made Moroccan slow cooker chicken for the family.  Julia celebrated the continuation of winter with a glass of Castle Rock Pinot Noir, while I sipped on a Deschutes Black Butte Porter.


 
 Justin is pretending not to mind all of the vegetables on his plate.


Tennessee: Roan Highlands, Part Four

(This is the final installment of my recent trip to the Roan Highlands–one of the highest points on the Appalachian Trail).

I don’t always get a good night’s sleep in my tent, but I slept hard on my last night’s stay at Roan Mountain State Park, waking at dawn.  After a quick breakfast of hot oatmeal and cocoa, I was driving back to Carver’s Gap for what I expected to be my most challenging hike to the top of the Roan Highlands:  Roan High Knob.  The parking lot was empty again, except for a lone vehicle with windows coated by condensation (evidence that someone was sleeping inside).

My first problem was to find where the trail went off to the south.  I was wandering around by the outhouse and public informational signs, but the trail southbound was actually a few dozen yards back towards the way I had come from the state park.  Temps were slightly above freezing.  The trail started off with a few scattered icy spots, but quickly became more difficult with long stretches of ice made more slippery by melt.  I passed thee thru-hkers going up, a solo woman who had just made it through the  ice and a couple of guys in the middle of the worst part.  It was manageable and clearly more difficult going down fast than going up slow.



There was an overnight shelter towards the top of the ascent, but it was off the main trail, so I didn’t stop to visit.  Instead, I continued hiking to the top until I found a side trail taking me to the former site of the Cloudland Hotel.



 

Cloudland was a luxury hotel built in the 1880’s above 6000 feet.  There is still a road that reaches Roan High Knob, although it is seasonal and was still closed in late March. I’ve hiked hard trails to the top of mountains that people could access by car or rail, such as Mount Washington in New Hampshire, and it’s never quite the same experience.  As the father to a son in a power wheelchair, I understand more than most that access to nature  is difficult for some people.  It’s so important for more people to get out in nature, including mountaintop views.  However, I can’t say that I am sad that a luxury hotel doesn’t sit on top of Roan High Knob anymore. 

After a tough climb, I wasn’t in a mood to share my view with people who drove to the top or who had slept on comfortable beds.  The Cloudland Hotel lasted only 20 years before being dismantled in 1914.

High Knob was windy, cold, and beautiful.  Even though it was Friday, which tends to see more people on popular trails than mid-week, no one else was around.  I sat behind some rocks and lingered, reflecting on the natural beauty and my hiking trip in general.  We tend to get comfortable in our mostly sedentary lives.  This had been the perfect trip to shake me out of my doldrums.

I continued hiking southbound off the Knob for awhile before realizing that the next major peak was going to be quite a distance down and then back up again.  I decided to end my time on the Appalachian Trail and head back to the Knob and to Carver’s Gap.  I picked my way slowly down the icy trail and was back to my truck before noon.  I had reached all of my goals, so I went back to Dairyland in the town of Roan Mountain and had a celebratory bbq pork sandwich.

I hiked a few short trails in Roan Mountain State Park, checked out some exhibits at the Visitor’s Center, and settled back in for my last night at the campsite.  On the next morning, the road back to Wisconsin would be waiting.





Tennessee: Roan Highlands, Part Three


March 28th:
When I finished my hike back into Carvers’ Gap on the 27th, I talked to two older thru-hikers who described the opposite side of the gap as “horrible” due to icy conditions.  The weather forecast was for warmer conditions for the rest of the week, so I decided to put off my climb up to Roan High Knob.

I left my car at the Station parking lot at about 8:30 a.m.  They charge $10 for overnight or day parking/security, which rattled my frugal nature, but small businesses on the trail needs to make money in order to survive. Unlike a Carver’s Gap, there is no large parking lot here at the trail crossing. Running a craft beer taproom/hiker hostel/shuttle service is no picnic, so I didn’t let the fee linger in my thoughts too long.

It was about a half mile road walk downhill on Hwy 19E to the trail crossing.  The elevation here is much lower than Carver’s Gap, which meant I would be climbing all day to my destination at the top of Houston Ridge. As I hiked, I quickly realized that I was overdressed for the lower elevation and warmer day.  I went from full gear to a t shirt and long pants in about an hour.  I was running into thru-hikers who were down to shorts.

After a couple of miles, I left the woods and entered a clearing called “Doll Flats.”  It basically looks like a relatively flat farm field on top of the mountain, overlooking a steep drop off to small farms far below.  The faint call of a rooster let me know that I had not left civilization–yet.




I continued my ascent through the woods on the other side of Doll Flats, crossing from Tennessee into North Carolina.


This above sign is a fairly typical “highway sign” on the Appalachian Trail.  The translation is that, yes, you are on the A.T in North Carolina, and a water source is off to the right.  There is also an implication that this would be a good time to “water up” because there might not be additional water for awhile (up on the ridge).  I was still carrying 1.5 liters of water, so I kept going.

Soon, I was hiking above the trees on the long ascent up Houston Ridge.



Even though the temperatures were much warmer than the day before, the high winds caused me to put on another layer of clothes and my hat.  This particular stretch of trail was the primary reason that I traveled to the Roan Highlands.  The wind, the views, the solitude all combined to make me feel more alive than I had in sometime.


About halfway up the ridge, I saw a little dot on top of the mountain that I thought was a hiker coming towards me, but the dot stopped moving.  Then I saw it was an animal moving slowly back and forth (maybe a dog?)  Finally, I climbed high enough to see that it was a deer, standing like a king overlooking his domain.  I never did get close enough to photograph him.  I was worried he was going to run off while I retrieved my camera, so I just kept going, hoping that he would still be there when I got to the top.  The final ascent blocked my view of him, and then I joined him at the top.  He was motionless for an instant, making eye contact with me. And then he trotted nonchalantly off into the woods on the right, leaving the summit for me.   I have to admit that shivers went down my spine.  For a moment, I imagined being that deer, living on top of the world in that desolate, windy place.  Free.

Then the moment was gone.  I sat down behind a rock outcropping for some wind protection and ate my lunch (trail mix and water)  I lingered up there for about an hour, not another human in sight the entire time.


The trip down was much faster than the ascent.  I was back at the Station for a beer by 2 pm, ate a bbq sandwich in Roan Mountain at Dairyland (really good at $4.99, including cole slaw), bought groceries and firewood, and was back at the campground while the afternoon was still warm.  I cooked up the fixings for beef burritos and then sat by the fire with a water bottle of Ginger Ale and a splash of bourbon. I would be ready for the other side of Carver’s Gap on my final day.  Life was good.



Tennessee: Roan Highlands, Part Two


March 27th:
I woke to a light drizzle and made a quick breakfast of fruit, hot oatmeal, and cocoa.  No one was up and moving at the campground; everyone was tucked into their heated RV’s.  But I was on the road by 8 a.m.  The drive to Carver’s Gap was only about 15 minutes from the campground.



As you can see from the photo above, there were plenty of parking spots available.  In fact, I didn’t see anyone actually hiking for about the first three hours.  Hiking conditions were not ideal.  The climb out of the gap was about 700 vertical feet of icy switchbacks.  The reward was a view of the cloud that covered the top of the mountain.





The Roan Highlands are known for grassy mountain tops (balds) and grassy ridges. In most of the southern Appalachians, mountain tops tend to be heavily wooded and without views. In the northern Appalachians, tree line can be as low as 4000 feet with views for forever from rocky, bare mountaintops.  Although it appears from my photos that there is just a heavy stationary cloud, the winds were actually blowing about 40 mph, so the clouds were in rapid motion.  Down at Carver’s Gap, the thermometer indicated about 32 degrees Fahrenheit.  Up on top, it felt like the low 20’s with colder wind chill.  I was dressed with long underwear (top and bottom), two sets of socks, t-shirt, heavy fleece sweater, rain jacket, and knit cap.  There was a light drizzle at the gap and a stinging sleet on top.

I passed Round Bald and Jane Bald before descending back into the woods.  I passed an abandoned Coleman tent that was apparently not quite up to the conditions.





At just over 3 miles, I was excited to see my first trail shelter in over 20 years.  My excitement diminished when I got up close and saw that someone had taken over the entire shelter by putting up their tent in the shelter.  I had planned to sign the trail register, but whoever was in the shelter was still inside the tent with the trail register at 10 a.m.  Some things don’t change. On my thru hike,  I was always first up in the shelter and on the trail. I was typically finished by 2 or 3 pm after a 15-20 mile day.  Many of the  twenty somethings hiked the same distance but didn’t get started until late morning (or later) and didn’t get to the shelter until after dark. 


I continued hiking on.  The trail traveled back and forth from winter to spring and back again, depending on where I was on the mountain.  I also passed a marker for Yellow Mountain Gap where a group of mountain men traveled in 1780 to defeat the British soldiers during the Revolutionary War.   Finally, I reached my second shelter, Overland Shelter, and signed the trail register:  “Quid Pro Quo Returns”  GA>ME ’96. Translation:  my thru-hiker nickname was Quid Pro Quo, and I hiked northbound from Georgia to Maine in 1996.

The Overland Shelter is a converted barn and has sleeping quarters on two floors.  A lone section hiker in his 20’s was present when I arrived. He told me that he had been section hiking the Appalachian Trail for about eight years.





After eating my lunch of trail mix and water, I said goodbye and started on the return trip to Carver’s Gap.  The folks tenting in the first shelter had woken up and were having breakfast (at noon).  I waved hello/goodbye and headed back up into the balds.  The view had improved.


As I crossed the balds and down the mountain (southbound), I did run into several thru-hikers who were northbound.  I could tell they instantly dismissed me as a day hiker who was not one of them.   And they were right.  My time as a thru-hiker has passed.  It still felt wonderful to be “back on the trail.”  My hike finished up at 13 miles for the day.  My feet were sore, and I was ready for a beer.

I drove to the Station, which is a newish hiker taproom/hostel on Hwy 19e just east of Roan Moiuntain, TN .  The bartender, who was nicknamed “Crazy”, gave me a couple of samples of Tennessee IPA’s.  I selected the Scatterbrain IPA by Bearded Iris Brewing of Nashville.  “Crazy” called it one of the top three IPA’s in the country.  I  agree that it was a great IPA and drank two of them.  We shared some hiking stories and I arranged to use their parking services for the next day’s hike.


Tennessee: Roan Highlands, Part One


March 25th to March 26th:
As soon as we arrived home from Door County, Julia took off for an Easter Egg Hunt that she has organized for many years.  I jumped in the Nissan truck and started driving south on my tenting/hiking trip.  I stayed overnight at a cheap Red Roof motel in Louisville, Kentucky and then continued on the next morning for another six hours before arriving at Roan Mountain State Park during the early afternoon. 

I wasn’t really sure what the campground would be like, so I was pleasantly surprised to find my tent site about six big steps from a beautiful creek on the side of the mountain.  That’s my truck and tent across the creek.


Add a picnic table, fire ring, on-site water spigot, tent pad, heated bathrooms, and hot showers–for $15/night, and sign me up again.  While the rv section of the campground was about half-full, I was the only one tent camping this early in the season.  A somewhat negative surprise  was that no alcoholic beverages were allowed in the campground. For someone used to camping in Wisconsin, that seemed almost anti-patriotic.  Fortunately, I didn’t learn about that prohibition until the day before I left, so I figured that I was “grandfathered,” more or less.  I imbibed in moderation. No harm, no foul.

On the afternoon of my arrival, I set up camp and hiked a couple of trails inside the campground that were on the other side of the creek and went up the mountain.  After stretching my legs for four or five miles, I ate a light dinner and turned in early.  By the time darkness arrived around 8 pm, the temperature dropped off quite a bit.  During the night, I pulled on a fleece sweater and put on my knit hat.  I won’t lie; I still got cold.  My twenty degree sleeping bag was not up to the task on the first night.  I tossed and turned a bit, knowing that I was returning to the Appalachian Trail in the morning and would be going up into the balds.

Hail no!

 We've really been enjoying the change of the weather with one exception.  Nights have been around 40 degrees, while days are generally ...