Puerto Vallarta: Lowlights and Wrapping Up

 

From December 2021

I've covered the highlights of our trip to Puerto Vallarta over the last few weeks.  So were all aspects of Puerta Vallarta a picture post card?  No, not everything, although I liked it well enough that it would be high on the list of places to relocate, if I was going to relocate, which isn't happening in the short term.  

Mexico has a very different social safety net than the United States.  I would argue that it isn't necessarily worse--just different.  Over the last several decades, the United States has experienced a widening gap between the very wealthy and the rest of us.  We have a lot of poor people living on the edge.

In Puerto Vallarta, there seems to be a strong middle class, and people in the working class seem happy with less.  But it hasn't escaped the problems of many other cities.  Drugs and alcohol abuse is evident. There are drunks/addicts doing their thing and getting sick in public and bathing in the fountains.  There is petty crime, but I did not hear of violent crime.  We felt safer here than we do in U.S. cities of comparable size.  People look out for each other. 

For the severely disabled, there is free medical care via a second tier health care system.  Waits are long, and not everything is available.  

Perhaps one of the most initially disturbing sights to me were disabled children on the Malecon, begging throughout the day with the parents standing behind the wheelchair. Young children are also put to work to help support the family.  The most visible example of that  are the dozens of kids selling trinkets at the beach to tourists eating dinner.  Those are things you don't often see in the U.S., but different is not necessarily worse.

There is urban sprawl here, especially to the north of the city--developments and gated properties catering to Americans and Canadians.  Puerto Vallarta is getting to be more expensive with growing tourism and the influx of dollars.  We come for the beauty at cheaper prices, and end up driving the prices up for everyone. 

We are already planning our next trip to Mexico sometime in the next couple of years.  While we loved Puerto Vallarta, we're going to explore a new destination and hopefully stay for a longer time (months instead of weeks). 

 

Puerto Vallarta: Beer

From December 2021

My expectations are always low for local beer when I travel in Latin America.  Many of the beers are produced by mega-breweries and tend to be light lagers.

Negra Modelo is an exception to the predominant style, representing a dark lager with hints of caramel and nuts.

I found two brewpubs in the Zona Romantica neighborhood, but I only tried the beer at one.  Los Muertos Brewing is the better-known of the two, serves food, and was often packed with people. Instead, I went to Monzon Brewing Company, which was less glitzy and more neighborhood pub atmosphere.

All of the beers that I tried were above average.  The customers were mainly Americans and Canadians, including some long-term expats.  The beer and atmosphere were good enough that i returned a couple of more times.

Porter from Monzon

 

Puerto Vallarta: Public Art on or near the Malecon

 From December 2021

During our walks on the Malecon, I took photos of some of the many sculptures.

 

 

 

Looking back at those photos now, I recall the peace we both felt on the Malecon, especially at sunset.  Being in Puerto Vallarta didn't make the pandemic go away.  Masking inside was strictly observed for all--even in the common areas of our condo complex. But outside, walking among the sculptures along the sea, especially at sunset, it was possible for us to forget for just a little while. 

Puerto Vallarta: Hike to Las Animas, Part One

 From December 2021

We started our day by catching a bus in Zona Romantica at the corner of Calle Constitucion and Basilio Badillo in front of the OXXO convenience store.  The fare was ten pesos (about fifty cents), and the bus took us directly to the small town of Boca de Tomatlan about 30 minutes south of Puerto Vallarta.  There is no worrying about which stop to get off, because it's the last stop on the line. 

 

While this is a popular hike, hiking isn't as popular an activity in Mexico.  There were no signs or information booths at the start.  From our research, we knew to head downhill until we reached the town's small marina.

 

Boca has several restaurants and hotels and is a very laid back alternative to Puerto Vallarta. Many small water taxis leave from the marina for tours and transportation.

We continued following the bay until we were in the jungle and found a small footbridge.  No other hikers were in the area, and we weren't certain of the trail.  I knew we were on a footpath, but was it the right footpath to our destination?

View after our bridge crossing

We became less certain of the trail at this point, passing closely in front of people's small homes and stairwells.  Once we made it to the other side of the bay, the trail became more obvious, and there were a couple of gringo signs to keep us on the right path and away from private property.

Around this point, we ran into three other hikers, moving slowly but steadily.  One was a retired expat who was guiding two visiting friends. He hikes this trail weekly and told us to stay to the right and continue following the waterline, and we would be fine.  It was good advice. Vegetation was thick but also beautiful.

The trail goes by a number of secluded and not-so-secluded beaches.  After an hour of hiking, we made it to our first secluded beach.  But we weren't the only ones there for long.  There were many other beaches ahead.  So we kept going after a short stop.

Water taxi arriving with a small group

 

 To be continued.

Puerto Vallarta: The Park, Espresso, and the Rio Cuale

From December 2021

The park was right below our rental unit. 

 

It was a beautiful place to hang out at all times of the day and people watch.  On Saturday morning, there was a big farmer's market. 

 

My favorite coffee shop, A Page in the Sun, was conveniently located across from the park also.  Coffee here is made as an Americano or espresso; no drip available.

 

An Americano is made by extracting espresso and then adding hot water to dilute. Espresso is undiluted. It's very difficult to find places that make good espresso:  fresh beans, fresh grind, 25 to 35 second extraction for 2 ounces of coffee nectar.  Even if an espresso isn't perfectly made, adding hot water often makes an acceptable coffee drink. 

The Rio Cuale was another green space within a few blocks walking distance.  We took several long walks up the river.  

 

Motorcycle crossing the pedestrian suspension bridge

Most of the other areas that I've visited in Mexico have been desert climates; Puerto Vallarta is a tropical climate.  On the next post, I'll write about our hike through the coastal jungle..  

Getting his steps in

Puerto Vallarta: Mirador

 From December 2021

Most of the "walking around" in Puerto Vallarta is flat, especially on the Malecon which is the paved walkway next to the beach. As a person walks away from the beach and towards the foothills, that quickly changes.  One of my favorite hikes, which I did most mornings, was to the top of Mirador el Cerro de la Cruz or more simply, Mirador or Lookout.

The final modern staircase to the top is easily seen from all around the city.  This is the view from the religious shrine, El Cerro de la Cruz (Cross on the Hill) which is slightly higher and behind the lookout.

 

 

The path to get there is a little more tricky and involves winding up steep, narrow streets and stairs in working class neighborhoods, which included a sprinkle of gringos who found the more economic tourist stays.

 

The last stretch is the real workout.  It's short but very, very steep.  If I ever move to this city, I would hike that ascent every single day that I could to stay in shape.  It's a heart-pounder.  

After a couple of days, Julia got bored/tired of climbing the Mirador.  I loved it.  If the hike didn't take my breath away, the view did.  

I tried to get all of my steps and hiking in during the mornings.  Julia and I always met back up for happy hour at the condo pool during the late afternoon.

A cold beer in the shade

Puerto Vallarta: A State of Mind

From November 2021

I'm an early riser, so I was up before dawn on our first morning and sat out on the dark balcony watching the city start to wake up.  Puerto Vallarta is smaller than Madison, Wisconsin, but has the feeling of a much bigger city.  

Tourism is the biggest industry, and Americans/Canadians outnumbered Mexicans on many of the streets close to the beach.  English is widely spoken.  I rarely needed to use my Duolingo Spanish, although it was helpful at times.  Our condo was in the Zona Romantica, a/k/a Viejovallarta (Old Town).  This neighborhood is known for tourism and open arms for the LGBT community. There's something here for everyone:  restaurants, art galleries, beach sports, and shopping.

 

Puerto Vallarta has a Malecon (paved walkway) along the beach that is about a mile long.  There's always something going on there: live music, street performers, paragliding, food/drink carts, etc.   

Beyond the Malecon to the south are beautiful rocky beaches with tidepools.  

View to the South

 

Sea Urchin

By the end of our first day, we felt completely comfortable and relaxed.  Did I mention that I really like Puerto Vallarta?

Puerto Vallarta: Flight and Arrival

From November 2021

We hadn't flown in nearly a year.   I have to admit that flying was a strange feeling.  Masks were required; Julia and I were double masked. Every time someone coughed, I cringed inside.

The flight itself was smooth.  Immigration and Customs were easy.  After that, there's a bit of a gauntlet to the sidewalk with timeshare and excursion salesman.  Once on the street, the cheapest option to get to Old Town ( Zona Romantica) is the bus, and it's less than a buck.  

Julia preferred a taxi with our big suitcases, so I guided her away from the official taxi line, up some stairs,  across a nearby pedestrian bridge, and down some stairs to cheaper taxis with no wait.  Twenty minutes later we arrived at our condo building on Lazaro Cardenas across from the park. 

The front desk staff was waiting for us and provided the key to our room.  It was pretty sweet and met all of my expectations.

Balcony

Living Room

The views on the roof were pretty good too.

But we didn't come to Puerto Vallarta to hang out in the room.

Pretty Good First Day

 

Long Distance, Short Journey, Part 2

For most tourists visiting Puerto Vallarta, it’s all about the beach.  From the southern beaches in the Romantica Zona, it’s possible to walk continuously north along the beach for miles. When one tires of walking on sand, the Malecon (a boardwalk) just along the beach offers respite.

After checking into my hotel at 3 pm., I sauntered the beach and the streets close to the beach until 6 or 7 pm.  Drinks and food are much more expensive along the beach.  Just a few blocks away, I was able to find carne asada (marinated steak) tacos for less than a buck and bottles of beer for a dollar or two.  Vendors were glad to take American dollars or pesos, but better prices were available with pesos after exchanging currency at a bank near my hotel (19 pesos/dollar).





After the sun went down, entertainment started up in the bars close to my hotel.  Options varied from American-style rock bands playing Sweet Home Alabama to traditional mariachi to drag shows.  I hung out for awhile listening to the southern rock while sipping Pacifica beers.   Later, I had to eat a couple of more delicious tacos from a street vendor.  Suffering a bit from lack of sleep and a slight buzz, I turned in early.  My hotel bed was very firm.  I woke up after midnight and could hear the music and nightlife hitting its stride.

Saturday, March 4, 2017

After a good night’s sleep, I jumped out of bed at 6 a.m., took a shower, and headed out into the streets in search of a good cup of coffee.  Not much was open so I hiked up the beach to the fishing pier. (most of the images on this page are clickable for larger images with more detail)

Several locals were fishing with rigs consisting of a spool of line, hook and bait (no pole).  I didn’t see anyone catch anything except for this gentlemen with a net, and he may have been netting baitfish.

 
I was now ready for a good cup of coffee, and I didn’t have to walk far.

A Page in the Sun is a really nice coffeeshop just a block or two up from the beach .  The coffee was roasted a tad darker than my preference, but it was well prepared and flavorful.  (Address:  Lázaro Cárdenas #179 Col. Emiliano Zapata). I only tried the brewed coffee but all typical specialty coffee drinks were available.

Cup of goodness in hand, I headed north on my planned day-long hike.  My goal was to hike to the Marina, located in north Puerto Vallarta and is where the cruise ships dock.  At first, I strolled along the Malecon (a beach boardwalk) where there was abundant public art and people watching opportunities.

During these early morning hours, I watched hotel and restaurant staff getting ready for the day.  Young women were squeezing oranges for orange juice.  Young men climbed trees for fresh coconut.  If you look closely among the branches of the tree on the left, you will see the latter. That falling branch nearly clipped me.

After living on tacos and beer the previous day, I was getting hungry, so I stopped for breakfast.

This is machaca, shredded beef and eggs, served with potatoes, tortillas, salsa, and jalapeño peppers. The food was excellent, except the potatoes which had an odd off-flavor.  The coffee was horrible, which was not unexpected.  This was a local place (Spanish spoken only), and the best coffee beans are either exported or used at specialty coffeeshops like a Page in the Sun referenced above.

After breakfast, I continued walking another five miles to the Marina, where the Grand Princess was parked. Along the way, I passed mostly luxury hotels, but there were interesting, diverse scenes along the way.

 

After reaching the cruise ship, I stopped for lunch and a beer. 

The sun was growing hot, so I took my time on the return hike.  Upon reaching the hotel, I was ready for a quick nap and shower before heading back to the beach for my second and last night.

As I walked along the shore, I marveled at the blending of sea, sky, and land at dusk.

Next, I  heard a performer singing an Eagle’s song nearby (“Lying Eyes). I walked into the nearby hotel bar to hear the song, sat down, and order a mojito. The singer was just ending his musical set as my drink arrived.  As soon as he stepped down from the stage, probably a dozen people stopped him to take photographs and get hugs.

As I stared at the scene, one of his fans stopped by my table and asked if I knew who the singer was.  “No idea,” I replied.  “That’s one of the original guys from the 70’s band Steely Dan,”  he replied. Growing up listening to Steely Dan songs, “Deacon Blues,” “Josie”, and “Black Cow”, I was impressed.

Unfortunately, he didn’t sing any Steel Dan tunes, but the covers he did sing were pretty good.  An hour later, with my expensive mojito gone, I wandered  five or six blocks inland where I could again buy inexpensive steak tacos and beer.  My legs were tired from the earlier long hike and climbing up to my fifth floor hotel room several times during the day.  I slept like a baby on Saturday night.

Sunday, March 5, 2017

I needed to be in a taxi to the airport by 8:30 a.m. for the flight home.  Before I left Puerto Vallarta, I had time for one more cup of coffee  at a Page in the Sun.  I then stopped at a local diner for a breakfast of  chilaquiles verdes:  hot green peppers, eggs and fried tortillas, washed down with orange juice squeezed in front of me right after I ordered.

My Puerto Vallarta journey was short and very sweet.  The trip home was uneventful.