For most tourists visiting Puerto Vallarta, it’s all about the
beach. From the southern beaches in the Romantica Zona, it’s possible
to walk continuously north along the beach for miles. When one tires of
walking on sand, the Malecon (a boardwalk) just along the beach offers
respite.
After checking into my hotel at 3 pm., I sauntered the beach and the
streets close to the beach until 6 or 7 pm. Drinks and food are much
more expensive along the beach. Just a few blocks away, I was able to
find carne asada (marinated steak) tacos for less than a buck and
bottles of beer for a dollar or two. Vendors were glad to take American
dollars or pesos, but better prices were available with pesos after
exchanging currency at a bank near my hotel (19 pesos/dollar).
After the sun went down, entertainment started up in the bars close
to my hotel. Options varied from American-style rock bands playing
Sweet Home Alabama to traditional mariachi to drag shows. I hung out
for awhile listening to the southern rock while sipping Pacifica
beers. Later, I had to eat a couple of more delicious tacos from a
street vendor. Suffering a bit from lack of sleep and a slight buzz, I
turned in early. My hotel bed was very firm. I woke up after midnight
and could hear the music and nightlife hitting its stride.
Saturday, March 4, 2017
After a good night’s sleep, I jumped out of bed at 6 a.m., took a
shower, and headed out into the streets in search of a good cup of
coffee. Not much was open so I hiked up the beach to the fishing pier.
(most of the images on this page are clickable for larger images with
more detail)
Several locals were fishing with rigs consisting of a spool of line,
hook and bait (no pole). I didn’t see anyone catch anything except for
this gentlemen with a net, and he may have been netting baitfish.
I was now ready for a good cup of coffee, and I didn’t have to walk far.
A Page in the Sun is a really
nice coffeeshop just a block or two up from the beach . The coffee was
roasted a tad darker than my preference, but it was well prepared and
flavorful. (Address: Lázaro Cárdenas #179 Col. Emiliano Zapata). I
only tried the brewed coffee but all typical specialty coffee drinks
were available.
Cup of goodness in hand, I headed north on my planned day-long hike.
My goal was to hike to the Marina, located in north Puerto Vallarta and
is where the cruise ships dock. At first, I strolled along the Malecon
(a beach boardwalk) where there was abundant public art and people
watching opportunities.
During these early morning hours, I watched hotel and restaurant
staff getting ready for the day. Young women were squeezing oranges for
orange juice. Young men climbed trees for fresh coconut. If you look
closely among the branches of the tree on the left, you will see the
latter. That falling branch nearly clipped me.
After living on tacos and beer the previous day, I was getting hungry, so I stopped for breakfast.
This is machaca, shredded beef and eggs, served with potatoes,
tortillas, salsa, and jalapeño peppers. The food was excellent, except
the potatoes which had an odd off-flavor. The coffee was horrible,
which was not unexpected. This was a local place (Spanish spoken only),
and the best coffee beans are either exported or used at specialty
coffeeshops like a Page in the Sun referenced above.
After breakfast, I continued walking another five miles to the
Marina, where the Grand Princess was parked. Along the way, I passed
mostly luxury hotels, but there were interesting, diverse scenes along
the way.
After reaching the cruise ship, I stopped for lunch and a beer.
The
sun was growing hot, so I took my time on the return hike. Upon
reaching the hotel, I was ready for a quick nap and shower before
heading back to the beach for my second and last night.
As I walked along the shore, I marveled at the blending of sea, sky, and land at dusk.
Next, I heard a performer singing an Eagle’s song nearby (“Lying
Eyes). I walked into the nearby hotel bar to hear the song, sat down,
and order a mojito. The singer was just ending his musical set as my
drink arrived. As soon as he stepped down from the stage, probably a
dozen people stopped him to take photographs and get hugs.
As I stared
at the scene, one of his fans stopped by my table and asked if I knew
who the singer was. “No idea,” I replied. “That’s one of the original
guys from the 70’s band Steely Dan,” he replied. Growing up listening
to Steely Dan songs, “Deacon Blues,” “Josie”, and “Black Cow”, I was
impressed.
Unfortunately, he didn’t sing any Steel Dan tunes, but the covers he
did sing were pretty good. An hour later, with my expensive mojito
gone, I wandered five or six blocks inland where I could again buy
inexpensive steak tacos and beer. My legs were tired from the earlier
long hike and climbing up to my fifth floor hotel room several times
during the day. I slept like a baby on Saturday night.
Sunday, March 5, 2017
I needed to be in a taxi to the airport by 8:30 a.m. for the flight
home. Before I left Puerto Vallarta, I had time for one more cup of
coffee at a Page in the Sun. I then stopped at a local diner for a
breakfast of chilaquiles verdes: hot green peppers, eggs and fried
tortillas, washed down with orange juice squeezed in front of me right
after I ordered.
My Puerto Vallarta journey was short and very sweet. The trip home was uneventful.
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