Lunch was excellent, although we noticed that P was still not feeling well and ate little. After lunch, we headed back up the trail, climbing up switchbacks.
Most of the other groups that we encountered on the trail were much larger. In groups larger than eight, one guide was out in front setting the pace, while the second guide was in the rear, making sure that no one was injured or left behind. During the morning hike, Freddy stayed out in front and kept us close together. By afternoon, he seemed more confident in our abilities, and he let me lead and set the pace. For the rest of the week, he hiked from the rear. Before starting out, Freddy would let me know where to stop ahead at landmarks, where we would take breaks or he would give a short talk about a particular ruin or geographical feature.
The one rule during hiking was that if porters were coming, you got out of the way so that they could easily pass. By regulation, the porters' packs were supposed to be limited to 20 kg or 44 lbs, but the reality is that most of them were carrying 50 lbs or more. What amazed me is that many of them didn't use their hip belts (they were dangling unattached), and many hiked in sandals or cheap tennis shoes.
There was a small town/gathering of families still higher up the mountain, and the only way to get supplies there was by pack animals--with whom we also shared the trail that day.
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| Freddy passing on the left |
I tried to pass this guy, but he then sped up and walked alongside me for quite awhile. The pack animals make weekly trips to the market in the valley. The owner, a young woman, stays at the rear to make sure that no animals stray away.
I didn't know it at the time, but we were all headed to the same place--Huayllabamba. The first campsite was at the small gathering of families up on the mountain.
As soon as the young woman unloaded and unpacked the supplies, she set the animals out to graze and then came back with a bucket of cold beer and soda for us. This was something that I was not expecting and was very grateful. There was even a flush toilet and a cold shower for anyone willing to brave the water piped directly from the mountain stream (no one did).
The porters set up our tents and the kitchen. After the hike and one beer, I was ready for a nap.
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| Freddy's tent |
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| Our tents and view |
Dinner included quesadillas, soup, and trout. Everything tasted great, and four of us were famished. P did not feel well enough to attend dinner. He did not leave his tent after the nap time, except to use the bathroom. G was starting to get worried and informed Freddy that P was having problems at both ends, digestively-speaking.
Freddy was also concerned. Today was a relatively easy hike. Tomorrow would be the hardest day with the very steep climb to Dead Woman's Pass and the highest elevation at almost 14,000 feet. Once we were on the other side of the pass, evacuation would be difficult if P's situation got any worse. P had experienced altitude sickness during a successful summit at Mount Kilimanjaro during a pre-pandemic hike, but expected to battle through the Inca Trail because Kilimanjaro is significantly higher in elevation.
We didn't stay up long after dinner. Sunset was at 6 p.m. Sunrise was also at 6 a.m. Every day of the year at the equator. Tomorrow would be a big day. I was proud of Julia; she had hiked just as well as the guys more than twenty years younger.
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| Sunset |
4 comments:
WOW! Real life adventure!
What were Julia's impressions?
Julia just reminded me that her biggest challenge on the first day was getting overheated. The trail starts off at a lower elevation than Cusco, and it did get quite warm on the first day when there was full sun exposure and little wind. She said that she felt revitalized by the fresh orange juice and another stop where we bought Gatorade. Julia loved the vistas and thought that the first campground was much better and with more amenities than she expected. Each night, our campsites became more primitive. The first day was flat or uphill. The downhills are her biggest difficulty due to knee and hip issues. P&G were dreading the climb to Dead Woman's Pass; Julia was dreading the descent from Dead Woman's Pass.
Hardcore. Seriously, hardcore.
The support that we got from the porters and cook made things much easier than a true backpacking trip. But now that we are in our sixties, I don't feel too badly about the extra support.
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