Inca Trail: Into the Clouds

We rose at 5:30 a.m. on our last full day of hiking, wondering if G would be able to hike with his bad ankle.  We found out at breakfast that his ankle was feeling much better, and P said he was recovered from his altitude sickness.  

Pancake breakfast with chocolate syrup

We had completed the hardest climbs.  Today, we would alternate steep descents with flat.  We were camped at Runkuraquay  (3710 meters or 12,172 feet).  

 

For the first two nights of the trail, the tour groups were relatively spread out.  But on the final night, we would join the other 496 hikers and porters at one final camp.  Freddy warned that we might want to make sure we used the bathroom before leaving that morning's camp because things would be "messy" at the evening camp.

Freddy was unusual accurate with his predictions, so I made sure to use the facilities.  Even here, there was no toilet seat, and I needed to wade through used toilet paper on the floor, wipe down the toilet rim, and do my business quickly.  For those wondering, the used toilet paper was on the floor because the wastebasket was overflowing.  One does not flush toilet paper down the toilet in third world countries.  I would much rather plop my butt over a downed tree or the worst outhouse on the Appalachian Trail than repeat that morning's experience.

Why didn't I just use a downed tree?   Freddy didn't advise it.  Off the trail, poisonous snakes, spiders and insects were present.  Also with the numbers of hikers each day, the government wanted to concentrate the unsanitary conditions in the provided bathrooms, which were cleaned once per day by rangers.

Early morning view

 

After a steep descent, we were in the clouds and mist/drizzle for the entire day.

Porters in the Fog

Inca Ruins

Continuing to hike down, the vegetation began to change to jungle.

Inca Trail: Descent from Dead Woman's Pass

Feeling like we had done the hard work for the day, we started descending from Dead Woman's Pass just before noon.  Earlier in the day, Freddy made the strategic decision to delay lunch to our final camp down below in the valley.  

The path down started out at a gradual grade.

Then the weather started to change.  Clouds quickly covered the pass, and a light rain began to fall, creating slippery conditions.

The trail turned into an alternating set of gradual downward grades, which Freddy called "ramps," and steep stairs.

Serious Focus

In the above photo, you can see that G is hiking on his own with Freddy and P bringing up the rear.  G soon passed Julia and started attacking the stairs more aggressively.

We were almost to our camp just past this bridge when G went down hard and did not get back up, screaming in pain.  My first thought was that he had broken something and that it was G, not P, who was going to need to be evacuated.  

G was writhing in pain and grabbing at his ankle.  Freddy arrived with P within a few minutes of the fall.  Freddy and P helped to get G's shoe off and then nearby porters carried him to the closest camp, where they prepared an herb-infused bath to soak G's foot and ankle.  

Our own camp was just around the next bend, so Julia and I continued on, wondering what was going to happen if G was unable to complete the hike.  Paul showed up at our camp shortly thereafter ad informed us that this was a chronic problem for G, having sprained that ankle several times before.  On these prior occasions, G's recovery had been  fairly quick, but Paul was worried because the next day's hike was over ten miles--our longest day but over relatively flat to descending terrain.  

It was a somber afternoon.  By supper time, G was gingerly walking around with one shoe and one sock. He said that he felt much better after the soak.  G quickly dismissed the idea that he wasn't going to be able to finish the hike.  "I'll be fine tomorrow," he promised.  "I've dealt with this a bunch of times."

That night's camp was more spartan than the night before.  Our water came from upstream.  The toilets did not have seats, and it was pretty obvious from the smell that the discharge was downstream.  Some of the camps were right next to the toilet, and we were very glad that our porters had chosen a narrow, flat ledge further away.

Everyone was present for dinner.  P was feeling much better, and his appetite was back.  G was still hobbling around, but his spirits were high.  We were cautiously optimistic about the next day, which would be the final full day of hiking.

Three of our porters in background

Inca Trail: Dead Woman's Pass

 Temperatures continued to drop as we climbed higher and higher.  It was time to put on the additional layers of clothing from our day packs.

Dead Woman's Pass has that name because the rocks resemble a dead woman in a reclining position.  As we climbed, all of us took turns looking for the dead woman, which also signified the end of the climbing.  So, of course, we saw dead women where there were none--at least not the official dead woman.

Dead woman?  Nope

Stairway to Dead Woman

Keep climbing

Keep climbing

Just a little more

Finally, we made it to the top, where we found the Dead Woman.

There were two guys on the top who had been watching us ascend for the last thirty minutes.  They were waiting for their friend (the guy with the food poisoning) who was behind us and hiking alongside  Freddy, P, and G.  We had been told to expect rain, wind, cold, and maybe snow at the pass, but the views and weather were actually spectacular for about thirty minutes.

Eventually, the rest of our party made it to the top for a group photo.

P told us that he was feeling much better.  Ain't nothing going to stop us now.  

Inca Trail: Ascent to Dead Woman's Pass

I woke the next morning to a flat inflatable sleeping pad, which isn't ideal, but I had a good night's rest. Our alarm clock was one of the pack animals braying just behind our tent.  A few minutes later, a porter came by with a tub of hot water for washing, soap, and cups of steaming coca tea.

We had a quick breakfast and  started hiking just before 7 a.m.  Julia and I were excited for the big day.  Our camp was at 3100 meters (10,170 feet).  Dead Woman's Pass tops out at 4215 meters (13,828 feet).  P still wasn't eating but was determined to power through.  

All smiles on the way up

Within the first hour, we entered high altitude jungle--full of mossy trees and vegetation that you would normally expect at much lower elevation.

Porters

On flat ground or downhill, the porters easily outpaced us.  But this day was all up and steep.  The porters frequently took breaks and we took turns passing each other.

The guy in the above photo was hiking very slowly and deliberately--never taking a break.  We learned from his friends that he was still getting over an extreme case of food poisoning, but there was no "quit" in him.  

Taking a break

Julia re-hydrating

When we stopped at 9:30 a.m. for for the last Gatorade stand on the trail, it was about half-way to the summit.  Temperatures were cooling quickly, and the views were opening up.

Inca Trail: Day One-Huayllabamba

Lunch was excellent, although we noticed that P was still not feeling well and ate little.  After lunch, we headed back up the trail, climbing up switchbacks.  

Most of the other groups that we encountered on the trail were much larger.  In groups larger than eight, one guide was out in front setting the pace, while the second guide was in the rear, making sure that no one was injured or left behind.  During the morning hike, Freddy stayed out in front and kept us close together.  By afternoon, he seemed more confident in our abilities, and he let me lead and set the pace.  For the rest of the week, he hiked from the rear.  Before starting out, Freddy would let me know where to stop ahead at landmarks, where we would take breaks or he would give a short talk about a particular ruin or geographical feature.  

The one rule during hiking was that if porters were coming, you got out of the way so that they could easily pass.  By regulation, the porters' packs were supposed to be limited to 20 kg or 44 lbs, but the reality is that most of them were carrying 50 lbs or more.  What amazed me is that many of them didn't use their hip belts (they were dangling unattached), and many hiked in sandals or cheap tennis shoes.  

There was a small town/gathering of families still higher up the mountain, and the only way to get supplies there was by pack animals--with whom we also shared the trail that day.

Freddy passing on the left

I tried to pass this guy, but he then sped up and walked alongside me for quite awhile.  The pack animals make weekly trips to the market in the valley.  The owner, a young woman, stays at the rear to make sure that no animals stray away.  

I didn't know it at the time, but we were all headed to the same place--Huayllabamba. The first campsite was at the small gathering of families up on the mountain.  

As soon as the young woman unloaded and unpacked the supplies, she set the animals out to graze and then came back with a bucket of cold beer and soda for us.  This was something that I was not expecting and was very grateful.  There was even a flush toilet and a cold shower for anyone willing to brave the water piped directly from the mountain stream  (no one did).

The porters set up our tents and the kitchen.  After the hike and one beer, I was ready for a nap.

Freddy's tent

 

Our tents and view

 

 

Dinner included quesadillas, soup, and trout. Everything tasted great, and four of us were famished.  P did not feel well enough to attend dinner. He did not leave his tent after the nap time, except to use the bathroom.   G was starting to get worried and informed Freddy that P was having problems at both ends, digestively-speaking.   

Freddy was also concerned.  Today was a relatively easy hike. Tomorrow would be the hardest day with the very steep climb to Dead Woman's Pass and the highest elevation at almost 14,000 feet. Once we were on the other side of the pass, evacuation would be difficult if P's situation got any worse.   P had experienced altitude sickness during a successful summit at Mount Kilimanjaro during a pre-pandemic hike, but expected to battle through the Inca Trail because Kilimanjaro is significantly higher in elevation.

We didn't stay up long after dinner.  Sunset was at 6 p.m.  Sunrise was also at 6 a.m.  Every day of the year at the equator.  Tomorrow would be a big day.  I was proud of Julia; she had hiked just as well as the guys more than twenty years younger. 

Sunset

Inca Trail: Day One-Morning

Neither of us slept much on the night before the hike started.  We were  laying awake when the alarm went off at 4 a.m.  After a quick shower, knowing that there wouldn't be another one for awhile, we headed out to the lobby for the 4:30 a.m. van pickup.  

Freddy (our guide) and P&G, our companions, were waiting out front.  It was about a three hour drive before we stopped in a small town to meet up with our porters, who all live in the town near the trailhead.  Freddy gave us 30 minutes to have breakfast and coffee. During that break, "P" confided to us that he hadn't been feeling well since arriving in Cusco.  He was already taking prescribed Diamox as a preventative for altitude sickness.

About thirty minutes later, we arrived at the trailhead.  Before each day, Freddy gave us an idea about what to expect from the trail.  This day would be the flattest and shortest day with a gradual incline in the morning and steeper "ramps" later in the day.  

We took pictures at the beginning of the trail and then crossed the footbridge at about 8:30 a.m.

P,G,J&J

Freddy's trail descriptions were always accurate, which is a good thing in terms of setting expectations.  Things were easy in the beginning, and there were some small luxuries that we enjoyed.  Due to being close to the trailhead town, small entrepreneurs set up small snack stores along the first part of the trail.  Here, Julia and I stopped for fresh squeezed orange juice.  Freddy and G had smoothies. 

 

The trail continued along on flat or gradual terrain.

Then Freddy turned to us and said, "Here, things will change."  That was pretty much the last we saw of flat trail during the week.

Heading Up

Looking back down

On the other side of the knob, we looked down on Inca ruins and terraced agricultural fields.

Continuing higher up, we came across ruins that we could explore on our own without other tourists.

We continued to climb until about 11:30 a.m. when we met up with our porters and cook, who were preparing lunch.  This is where my hiking experience diverged from any other hikes that I've ever done.  The porters laid out tarps for our backpacks.  A cooking/dining tent was set up.  On one side of the partitioned tent, our cook and his helpers prepared a three course meal for lunch.  On the other side, there was a small table and chairs set up for Freddy and the four "guests."  We often had popcorn as an appetizer and then some kind of soup.  That was followed by the main course, which varied.  Water was taken from whatever source was available, boiled, and then cooled to be available to refill our water bottles.  Coca tea was also available. 

Waiting for lunch to be served